Fashion Avenue News August Couture Issue – Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015-2016 Julien Fournié

Pixelformula  Julien Fournie Haute Couture  winter 2015  2016  Paris
Julien Fournie Haute Couture winter 2015 2016 Paris

Inspired by the early twentieth century fantasy films, Julien Fournié has reinvented this season the magic of Paris Couture.

Fascinated by the esotericism and the magnetism of Karl Freund’s or Marcel L’Herbier’s movies (respectively “Mad Love” and  “Fantastic Night“), the French couturier portrays the female characters who favor mystery to enhance their strong personality.

“I also read  Letters between Six Sisters, a selection of the Mitford sisters’ private correspondence “, says Julien Fournié. “I was fascinated by the independent thinking and the great wit of these socialites  who, despite their radically different political views, were keeping stormy but enduring relationships, always ready to shine together with wonderful elegance, even in troubled times. ”

With a contained shoulderline highlighting a long neck, a marked waistline slightly rounding the hips, with backs featuring inlays and favoring sheer fabrics, the silhouettes by Julien Fournié constitute a collection that makes shades of black sing. In some looks, the brightness of grey velvet, several sparkles of emerald, or the deep glitter of ruby confer upon Julien Fournié’s “First Night” a specific glitz.

In this world of semblance, sleeves are often extended like gloves to cover hands to the thumb joint, “illusion“ tulle partly covers the skin in a magnetic strategy of charm.

Moiré silks are often substituting velvet or crinkled vinyl on the back of tuxedos. The opening silhouettes introduce the ready-to-wear collection of the season, which will be  available in stores on the day after the show (particularly at Le Printemps department store, in Paris). These first fifteen numbers conjure up the world of magicians, notably through integrated capes at the back of a raincoat or of a little gray dress, but also in a riding-coat with integrated vest, in jackets with a detachable tail,  in jumpsuits with fabulous inlays of lace or  3D brocades.

A black Art Deco skyline on a fuchsia background is featured in the season’s exclusive print. Julien Fournié proposes with it a tunic a long skirt and a wide blouse with lavallière, which he also declines in a lightweight brocade of sheer black and silver.

The twenty following numbers reveal the specific witchcraft of Paris Couture. Grey or emerald silk velvet pieces  are often embroidered with sequins in the same shades. A “diamond- shaped ” neckline is embellished with Art Deco geometric patterns. The work undertaken in collaboration with Sophie Halette renews the use of lace embellishments and adds depth to vulnerability through three-dimensional  craftsmanship .

Drapé in fuchsia silk jersey with asymmetrical back, glittery bustiers with flaring corollas, chiffon or jersey gowns, a hooded sheath in embroidered velvet, a textile sculpture featuring a bouquet of velenous flowers hypnotize to the spectacular final dress in crinkled black vinyl.

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Sustainable Cosmetics Summit Europe 2015 – October, 21-23rd in Paris

Close-up of beautiful female face with colorful make-up.Beauty. Fresh glowing skin. Accessory.Flower.Blue.Art.Theater.Face art.Bright.Closeup.Portrait.Look Fashion make-upt.Fantastic Modern production

London – Major developments in green materials, sustainability metrics, ethical labels, and digital marketing will be featured in the European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit (www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Europe). The summit will be hosted at the Paris Marriott Champs-Elysées on 21-23rd October.

With cosmetic and ingredient firms under growing pressure to reduce their environmental impacts, sustainability metrics are gaining popularity. The opening session looks at popular approaches to measure environmental and social footprints. Elizabeth Laville, Founder and Director of Utopies, will present the latest sustainability metrics on cosmetic products. Yves Rocher will show how it is using such metrics in its sustainability strategy, whilst Bruno Garnier from Carrefour will state how the supermarket chain is addressing its packaging impacts. Vicky Murray from Neal’s Yard Remedies will outline the steps it has taken to become the first carbon-neutral retailer in the UK. Featured speakers will also debate the practical use of metrics: do they over-complicate the green agenda, or help focus sustainability efforts?

The green materials session will give an update on the growing array of sustainable ingredients available to product developers and formulators. Henrik Vingaard, Sourcing Director of AAK, will highlight the pitfalls and opportunities when sourcing raw materials from Africa. Active Concepts will show how sustainable extraction methods can help with product innovations. As the cosmetics industry looks to move away from polyethylene beads, J. Rettenmaier & Söhne will outline the green exfoliant alternatives. Other speakers will cover green chemistry in cosmetic formulations, novel marine ingredients, and sustainable alternatives to palm oil.

With concerns about labels proliferation in the cosmetics industry, the ethical labels session will give an update on recent developments and give future projections. Details will be given of new labelling schemes, such as Vegan Society, Nordic Swan and Fairtrade. Farhan Tufail from Halal Certification Schemes will highlight the potential of the Halal labelling scheme for cosmetics. With over 20 standards now for natural & organic cosmetics, leading certification agencies will discuss recent developments.

Carmen Esteban from the ISO Working Group will give an update on the ISO standard for natural and organic cosmetics. Is this the solution to global harmonisation? Tom Hornshøj-Møller, R&D Manager at Urtekram, and Salma Chaudhry of the Halal Cosmetics Company will give the brands perspective on adopting ethical standards.

The digital marketing session will look at the disruptive influence of mobile technology on the marketing of cosmetic products in the context of sustainability. Manuel Fernandes from Friends of the Earth will show how its ToxFox mobile app is being used to screen safe cosmetics. Thorsten Kremser from Faktor 3 will highlight the growing potential of social media marketing: how can cosmetic brands fully utilise Facebook, Pinterest, You Tube, Twitter and Instagram? Sonia White, owner of the UK online retailer Love Lula, will give pointers to brands on how to maximise online retail sales. Other speakers will cover digital consumer behaviour and mobile commerce developments.

The agenda of the European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit reflects the growing complexity of sustainability in the beauty industry. According to the organiser Organic Monitor: brands not only have to consider green ingredients / formulations and labelling schemes, but also packaging impacts, raw material sourcing, carbon and water footprints, operational efficiency, as well as the pervasive influence of mobile technology on marketing. This 7th European edition aims to help the cosmetics industry resolve many of these sustainability concerns.

About the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit

Since 2009, the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit has been covering sustainability issues in the cosmetic & personal care industry. The international series of summits now takes place in the major geographic regions of the world. The European edition will be hosted at the Paris Marriott Champs-Elysées on 21-23rd October. More information is available from www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com/Europe

The Sustainable Cleaning Products Summit (20-21 October) will be hosted alongside the summit. See www.sustainablecleaningsummit.com

About Organic Monitor

The Sustainable Cosmetics Summit is organised by Organic Monitor: a London-based specialist research, consulting & training company that focuses on the global organic & related product industries. Since 2001, we have been providing a range of business services to operators in high-growth ethical & sustainable industries. Our services include market research publications, business & technical consulting, seminars & workshops, and sustainability summits. Visit us at www.organicmonitor.com

How to Make Perfume Last

Retro Styled Beauty Lady Portrait

  1. It is important to have clean, healthy skin prior to spraying or applying perfume (washing areas where you spritz fragrance will help).
  1. Humid or moist skin enhances the perfume. Consider buying a body lotion that is part of the perfume line and use it as a base before you apply. “Layering is key,” says internationally renowned perfumer Claude Dir. “Apply the body lotion first, and then spritz the scent.”
  2. If you don’t have a body lotion with the same fragrance as the actual perfume, then apply an unscented lotion. Using light anti-perspirants with perfume typically enhances the fragrance and does not conceal it.
  1. Identify your pulse points (these are typically the wrists, neck, and behind the ears). The ears contain glands that help perfume perform well in this area! Make sure these are clean and moisturized (ideally with complementary body lotion). After applying the scent on pulse points, spray the perfume into the air and step into it so it envelops your entire body gently. Remember that scent travels upward, so don’t neglect the pulse points that are found in the upper part of your body.
  1. It’s best to apply perfume before you dress so that the clothing does not sap up the fragrance. Also, keep in mind that lighter notes (like florals) dissipate more quickly than stronger scents like musk. Perfume on skin means that it becomes warmer and rises with your temperature.
  1. Also remember that scent does expire –typically after three to six months after the bottle is opened, says Lev Glazman, founder of and perfumer for Fresh cosmetics. This is because the alcohol and the aldehydes (the organic compounds) dissipate and actually change the chemical composition and nature of the scent. If you use scent past its expiration date, don’t expect it to last very long on your skin.
  1. Fragrances are typically classified according to the strength of their scent (typically based on the concentration of scent oils). “Parfum” or “Perfume” contains the highest concentration of these oils. Then come Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, Eau de cologne and lastly body sprays and lotions. If you are using “Parfum,” it takes very little layering to make the scent stand out, so layer appropriately.
  1. Avoid exposing the fragrance to sunlight because the light can unbalance the ingredients. It is best to store perfume in a cool, dark place.