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Fashion Avenue News August Couture Issue – Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2015-2016 Julien Fournié

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Julien Fournie Haute Couture winter 2015 2016 Paris

Inspired by the early twentieth century fantasy films, Julien Fournié has reinvented this season the magic of Paris Couture.

Fascinated by the esotericism and the magnetism of Karl Freund’s or Marcel L’Herbier’s movies (respectively “Mad Love” and  “Fantastic Night“), the French couturier portrays the female characters who favor mystery to enhance their strong personality.

“I also read  Letters between Six Sisters, a selection of the Mitford sisters’ private correspondence “, says Julien Fournié. “I was fascinated by the independent thinking and the great wit of these socialites  who, despite their radically different political views, were keeping stormy but enduring relationships, always ready to shine together with wonderful elegance, even in troubled times. ”

With a contained shoulderline highlighting a long neck, a marked waistline slightly rounding the hips, with backs featuring inlays and favoring sheer fabrics, the silhouettes by Julien Fournié constitute a collection that makes shades of black sing. In some looks, the brightness of grey velvet, several sparkles of emerald, or the deep glitter of ruby confer upon Julien Fournié’s “First Night” a specific glitz.

In this world of semblance, sleeves are often extended like gloves to cover hands to the thumb joint, “illusion“ tulle partly covers the skin in a magnetic strategy of charm.

Moiré silks are often substituting velvet or crinkled vinyl on the back of tuxedos. The opening silhouettes introduce the ready-to-wear collection of the season, which will be  available in stores on the day after the show (particularly at Le Printemps department store, in Paris). These first fifteen numbers conjure up the world of magicians, notably through integrated capes at the back of a raincoat or of a little gray dress, but also in a riding-coat with integrated vest, in jackets with a detachable tail,  in jumpsuits with fabulous inlays of lace or  3D brocades.

A black Art Deco skyline on a fuchsia background is featured in the season’s exclusive print. Julien Fournié proposes with it a tunic a long skirt and a wide blouse with lavallière, which he also declines in a lightweight brocade of sheer black and silver.

The twenty following numbers reveal the specific witchcraft of Paris Couture. Grey or emerald silk velvet pieces  are often embroidered with sequins in the same shades. A “diamond- shaped ” neckline is embellished with Art Deco geometric patterns. The work undertaken in collaboration with Sophie Halette renews the use of lace embellishments and adds depth to vulnerability through three-dimensional  craftsmanship .

Drapé in fuchsia silk jersey with asymmetrical back, glittery bustiers with flaring corollas, chiffon or jersey gowns, a hooded sheath in embroidered velvet, a textile sculpture featuring a bouquet of velenous flowers hypnotize to the spectacular final dress in crinkled black vinyl.

CFDA discusses race issue in fashion

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Though strides have been made in recent years to address the lack of colour on the runways, race remains a touchy subject within the fashion industry.

In an effort to tackle the issue head on, the Council of Fashion designers of America (CFDA) held a panel discussion in New York recently on the subject led by industry activist Bethann Hardison. With heavyweights like Prabal Gurung, Edward Emninful, casting director Anita Britton, Elle’s Samira Nasr and Laird+Partners’ Hans Dorsinville participating in the conversation, the scene was set for a lively exchange, through the resulting candid manner in which the talk played out.

“It has been something that concerns me as I grew up in the industry,” Hardison, a pioneer of diversity in fashion said at the discussion, according to a blog on the CFDA website.

“The fashion industry has struggled a great deal with diversity,” the former model added. “If television can be diversified, so can we.”

Hardison pointed to the late 1980s and early 1990s as a moment in fashion when the ethnic makeup of modeling began to diversify, but that didn’t last long, prompting Naomi Campbell and Talley to approach her with the plea to champion change. The first town hall meeting on the topic was held in 2007.

A takeaway was how different people have different takes on diversity, which can range from models and designers to age and size.

Bitton, a native of England, recalled how, when she started out back home, “It wasn’t a question of race but class. I came to New York very neutral and green. There’s a lot to be said for the word inclusive.”

Enninful said that when he plans a shoot, he looks for a character that fits the concept. “Beauty for me is beauty — whether it’s black or it is Asian, it doesn’t matter for me. I only use whoever is right for the story.”

Dorsinville said there is a “continuum” from runway to advertising—when it’s a mass brand, there is an opportunity to create a campaign feature a diverse group of multiple models, whereas a designer may just be looking for a face – a muse – to represent the brand, limiting options.

Gurung added that “Race is an issue that is not just in fashion. We need to address that immediately. As a designer, I want to work with the best girls, who are the best girls for me. Sometimes, an agent says ‘If you want this black girl, you have to use this white girl,’ whom I may not like.”

“Diversity, not just in race but also age and size, is very important to me,” he added.

Nasr, who is Lebanese and Trinidadian, said the issue of diversity reaches beyond models, and includes the designer community and other professional fashion environments. Addressing the audience, which also included models of diverse backgrounds and modeling agents, she noted, “This is most colorful room I ever seen in the fashion industry, and I want to say if we want to have change, we need to grow this room.”

British Fashion Council to help UK designers

LONDON BFC

British designers selling pre collections in London next month will now have the backing of the British Fashion Council.

Pre collections have gathered momentum and play a vital role in the growth of fashion businesses with the selling period often lasting several weeks.

In a statement, the BFC said it will leverage interest from guests attending London Collections Men (12-15 June) in addition to driving womenswear buyers and press by throwing the spotlight on initiatives supporting pre collection activity from the June 15 to June 17.

“The designer fashion sector has responded to the demand for collections that fall outside the traditional spring/summer and autumn/winter period with collections that in some cases now account for up to 70 per cent of sales for some fashion brands. It’s important that we celebrate the designers that are selling pre collections in London and make it a date in the diary for press and buyers from all over the world,” Caroline Rush, chief executive of the BFC said.

Chair of the BFC press committee and editor-in-chief of 10 Magazine, Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou has been spearheading the activity in her BFC role, added: “These collections often represent possibly the most commercially successful section of a designer’s collection. I really feel that trying to find a way to help showcase this effectively is the future of our fashion landscape, a new chapter of understanding how to build a commercially successful brand without compromising everything London fashion stands for: innovation and creativity uncompromised.”

Over the two days between June 15 and 16, in a collaboration with The Hoxton, the BFC will launch The Hoxton Collective, a brand new showroom in The Apartment at The Hoxton, Holborn. The showroom will feature a curated group of collections from ready-to-wear designers including Alexander Lewis, Huishan Zhang, Marques’Almeida, Phoebe English and Zoë Jordan.

Designers including Alexander Lewis, Amanda Wakeley, Bora Aksu, Isa Arfen, Issa, Jonathan Saunders, OSMAN, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Peter Pilotto, Roksanda, Roland Mouret and Rupert Sanderson will host showrooms, presentations and salon shows in what is to become a focal period for pre collections making it easier for buyers to do business in the capital.

Just Cavalli – Revolution and harmony: dreaming of femininity

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In the Just Cavalli Autumn/Winter 2015-16 collection, a woman’s desire for freedom meets the formal balance of Bauhaus, creating an imaginary place where the warmth of romance and the formality of techno merge.

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The silhouettes have a pure, functional design; lines are slim and slightly flared for miniskirts, or diluted and open for dresses, while the woven profiles of velvet coats blend wide lapels with tall collars and feather embroidery. The tight-fitting shirts are in lace, with fur-edged collars. Both the waistcoats in shearling and feathers and the bomber jackets and aviator jumpsuits in silk cady and lace reveal details that are modern yet feminine at the same time.

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Untreated wools with a pavé of micro-studs and jacquard with coppered plaques prevail for knitwear, lit up by vanisè lurex and optical-art prints, which also feature on outerwear and trousers. Brocades with Bauhaus inspiration and lightweight patterns of stems and fronds turn into a flight of fading feathers, in embroidery and prints. Showy zips cut through the revolutionary spirit of the collection with sharp geometrics, framed by long angora scarves.

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Warm shades such as rust, lead grey, mustard and deep blood red add depth to the lines. Old rose, orange, green and bright airforce blue play with layers and color filling and variations on a theme of white.

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Bags in nappa, velvet or applied ostrich are semi-rigid in three different sizes. Architectural designs also for the ankle boots with column heel, in suede, pony or croc print in plain or patchwork colourways.

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Princess Diana’s gown goes under the hammer for £102,000

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Another gem from the late royal fashionista Princess Diana’s wardrobe recently went under the hammer for a sum of £102,000.

The London-based costume and textile auctioneer Kerry Taylor Auctions has just sold the famous fairytale ballgown, worn by the Princess of Wales on several occasions, at its Passion for Fashion event.

Part of the former husband and wife design duo, David and Elizabeth Emanuel, created Diaghilev collection in 1986, the gold and white coloured dress, which includes optional sleeve panels and long flowing skirt, is sumptuously decorated with intricate sequin embroidery.

Originally expected to fetch anywhere between £50,000 and £80,000, the dress was first spotted by the princess at a Red Cross benefit fashion show.

The sophisticated lady wore it on three public appearances—first at the German Ambassador’s London banquet, then to Bolshoi Ballet’s ‘Ivan the Terrible’ performance at Royal Opera House, and finally to the premiere of James Bond flick ‘The Living Daylights’ in Leicester Square, in June 1987.

Later, the Princess auctioned the gown through the auction house Christie’s, in London, to raise money for her charities.

‘Surprise!’ as Prince Harry joins Michelle Obama for Mother’s Day Tea

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Prince Harry and first lady Michelle Obama at the White House on Thursday. (Jacquelyn Martin/AP)

Britain’s Prince Harry drew cheers and shrieks of delight Thursday as he made a surprise appearance at a Mother’s Day Tea hosted by first lady Michelle Obama and Jill Biden, Vice President Joe Biden’s wife.

Obama did all the talking as the guests in the State Dining Room of the White House, chiefly women in the military, their children, their mothers and some military spouses, snapped phone-camera pictures and chattered excitedly.

The first lady—President Barack Obama was out of town—emphasized Harry’s service in Britain’s military and noted he had returned in January from his second tour in Afghanistan.

“For the past few years, he has focused on honoring the sacrifice and service of our veterans and military families, especially now that the war in Afghanistan is drawing to a close,” she said.

“We are absolutely thrilled that he could be with us today,” the first lady said, adding that her husband “wanted to be here to personally thank you for your service.”

But then, a warning:

Harry “only has a limited time with us because he has a very busy schedule,” she said.

So the first lady, Biden, and Prince Harry went to the Blue Room adjacent with a plan to greet as many guests as possible.

“Prince Harry is going to stay as long as he can, and our goal is to get through everyone, but whenever he has to leave, we’ll pull him out,” Obama said. Shortly afterwards, a loudspeaker announcement advised: “Ladies and gentlemen, please remain at your table until directed by a social aide.”

Harry is on his way this weekend to the Warrior Games in Colorado Springs for wounded or injured soldiers.

Credits: Olivier Knox, YahooNews