Tag Archives: Paris

Fashion Week Paris Couture Fall-Winter 2016-2017 – Franck Sorbier

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Once upon a time, a couple of artisans, their friends were calling them The Sorbier. Isabelle was painting fabrics, taking care of the studio and so much more things. Franck, as for him, was sewing, drawing and dreaming still and always. They had many birds, lovebirds, and liked passionately the couture. This season, they have decided to go for a new adventure: create a new colorful and joyful collection for little girls. With the best wish of a mini team of mouse and baby mouse, they have succeeded in building this story in a short period of time.

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Rodrigo and Bruno, their former loyal colleagues have given them an outside helping hand. After a perilous voyage in Saint Petersburg, they have decided to pay tribute to Slav folk tales. There would be colors, drawings, lightness and they hope retail. A new life. There would be Lady in black, they would be magnificently Haute Culture (no there is no typing error). They would have a role to hold on to. Just as every season, the fairy Christine looked after their happiness and success. Véronique Valcke, the season’s godmother, had invited them in her garden suspended in the Paris sky. On this occasion, a cake in the shape of a bulb of an Orthodox basilica was created with the collaboration of the pastry chef Sebastien Reul.

Andréa the passionaria have presented them Pascal Contet, a virtuoso accordion and also a crazy hatter for Panama hats designed after this little company colors. There were also generous lace sponsors, Mr Noyon and Mr Beauvillain. The beauty magician Shiseido and their ambassador Pierre Rocca, the hairstyle magician Alexandre de Paris and his ambassadors Jean-Luc Minetti and Fréderic Pavard offered their expertise to make the tale soft and sublime. They have discovered their “mini models” in Jennifer Goubé dance class and also by word of mouth in the trust circle.

GIE AXA France and members of the endowment fund Sorbier carry on with their loyal and active support. Stéphane Thouron for the Hotel Bavarez, Audrey Boucharlat and Anissa Tahidi for Wolford, Lanson Champagne have waved their magic wands that all is good and well. The Cornillon knight, Frédéric and Stéphane, always coming to the rescue and with drums beating closed proudly the steps.

 

 

 

Fashion Week Paris Couture Fall-Winter 2016-2017 Maison Margiela

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Innocence, risk, comfort, and protection. For the Autumn Winter 2016-17 Artisanal collection, creative director John Galliano explores a modern reinvention of haute couture through his most personal interpretation of Maison Margiela’s esprit to date. Evoking an illustrative line, aristocracy is decontextualized through an urban lens. Explosive and colourful gestures of authentic fabrics snake and kerb around the body with an Empire line, tweaked and transitioned in modern gestures of protection and ecstatic abandon. Archetypes are reconfigured with rigor and romance, where a blurring of sartorial trappings meets the banal.

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A sense of the incredible and the impossible spins throughout the Artisanal collection, where fantasy is tempered by the jarring authenticity of today’s reality. Our translation of a collective consciousness stretches further than ever before, invoking a timeless array of commonplace ephemera and things strangely familiar.” – Maison Margiela

MATERIALS
From fine muslin to resin-wax cottons or ripstop nylon, the rub of unprecious and delicate textiles is inherent to the collection’s tapestry of innovation and artisanal heritage. Opposing notions of feminine and masculine textiles are questioned and reconfigured with irreverence. Technical nylons meet Scottish wool from the Outer Hebrides, and motorcycle leathers bridge textiles woven from delicate cotton ribbons. Ornament appears as a ‘Toile de Jouy’ fabric, curvilinear ‘tribal’ studded motifs crossing swathes of knotted and padded wools, and celluloid bird appliqués decorating heavy plaid. A ‘cherubim’ lace is constructed from hundreds of minute individual fragments: it represents the technical apex of the Maison’s artisanal savoir-faire.

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TECHNIQUE
The seminal proposal of outerwear styles flip upside-down from an inverted stance of arching volumes to become a traditional coat shape. Garments betray multiple identities; assembled together from familiar archetypes to become layered hybrids with double lapels and undefined endings and beginnings. A windcheater is carved with the convex curve of a Watteau back; a banker’s stripe shirt is spun into a sweeping train. An intricate cartography of eaves and cornices forms a gown in vacuum-formed smoky plastic, another springs to life patched with Nick Knight’s British Birds (2008).

PALETTE
A burst of primary colours elevates the drab of tweed shades, as scarlet, emerald, sky blue, and sunshine yellow shine against charcoal, forest green, mustard, and chocolate brown. Mid-century pastels like ice blue and lemon sorbet fizz amongst the monochromes.

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ACCESSORIES
Intricate hoop earrings and ornate bracelets are hand-carved in Portugal from walnut, pear and boxwoods, and chandelier crystals appear as blood red chokers, embellished goggles, and a primary-coloured contour bra top. The original Maison Margiela deep-cleft ‘Tabi’ boot returns as a thigh-high cuissard with a new moulded rubber sole, alongside trekking-inspired sandals, fantasy hand-painted clogs, and a masculine riding boot.

Guido Palau – Redken Creative Consultant

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Guido is considered to be one of the world’s most conceptual hairstylists. Renowned design houses including Calvin Klein, Prada, and Louis Vuitton go to Guido to create the looks that lead the direction of hair for the upcoming season. Having a strong presence in the industry for over 20 years, Guido has brought his radically expressive style to runway shows, fashion advertising campaigns and editorial work for such noted magazines as American, Italian and French Vogue, W and Allure.

Growing up in Dorset, England, Guido was always inquisitive about style and inspired by fashion and beauty magazines featuring the works of notables such as Barry Lategan, Bruce Webber and Dutch hairstylist Christian whose freestyle approach pushed boundaries of his time. It was during the early eighties when subculture movements like New Wave, Indie and Goth co-existed and shaped a creative set that changed hair trends in cutting and coloring. All this, sparked Guido’s interest in hairdressing. Guido began training at Vidal Sassoon in London in 1983, then worked at the Clifford Stafford salon and eventually hooked up with David Sims who was an assistant photographer at the time. From their collaborations, he discovered his eye and love for hair in fashion.

Now, Guido is considered to be one of the world’s most conceptual hairstylists. Having a strong presence in the industry for over 20 years, Guido has brought his radically expressive style to runway shows, fashion advertising campaigns and editorial work for such noted magazines as American, Italian and French Vogue, W and Allure

Guido’s artistic and technical design skills led him to partner with Redken as the brand’s Creative Consultant in 2005. Since then, he has worked hand-in-hand with Redken, providing seasonal hair trends, acting as a brand ambassador at editorial photo shoots and fashion shows, representing Redken in the media, and creating key looks for Redken campaigns.

His client roster includes A-list designers like Prada, Versace, Marc Jacobs, Calvin Klein, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Miu Miu, Ralph Lauren, Versace, Donna Karan, Louis Vuitton, and Robert Cavalli. He works regularly with renowned photographers including, Steve Meisel, David Sims, and Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott.

Who is the one person you’d love to work with? I have actually been very lucky in that I have ticked off most of the boxes when it comes to people that I would most like to work with.

Where do you get your inspiration from? I get inspiration from absolutely everywhere; always keep your eyes open!

Most memorable mishap on a shoot/fashion show/ or with a celebrity: There have been a few, but one that sticks in my mind was on a shoot not so long ago. The shoot required so many wigs and in the end we had about fifteen. We were shooting in LA and had spent the past week prepping the wigs which involved wet sets, blow-outs, hot rollers and curling irons. Basically, a lot of work went into these wigs. The day of the shoot we were on location outside and we had the wigs set up on tables in a garden area. We were still working on several wigs when all of a sudden all around us a sprinkler system decided to go off!! The wigs and I were soaked! A weeks work gone in a flash!

Must-have hair product you use on yourself: Redken For Men maneuver. I love the matte finish!

Must-have tools when working: Hairdryer, tail comb, curling iron, flat iron Mason Pearson brush, and hot rollers!

Favorite city: New York City!, Golden Rule to live by: Just enjoy it!!, Beauty Icon: Pat Mcgrath, Trend you love: Anything that pushes boundaries

MILAN FASHION WEEK – GUCCI – The Contemporary is the Untimely

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‘Those who  are truly contemporary are those who  neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demand s. In this se n se , they are never at home in the present moment . But precisely through this disconnect ion and this anachronism, they are more capable than  others of perceiving and grasping their own time . Contemporariness, the n , is that relationship with time that adheres to it through a disconnection.’ (G. Agamben)

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The Autumn/Winter collection for 2015 -16 explores the world through this disconnection.  It doesn’t limit itself to a simple recording of the present, rat her it embodies that elusive threshold between the ‘no longer’ and the ‘not yet.’  This is a threshold of temporal fluxes, where relics of the past merge with signs of the future. Within this frame, forgotten fragments become incorporated into new horizons of meaning: flowers borrowed from tapestries abandoned in old attics, birds embroidering precious promises of love inspired by Georgian atmospheres, pleated dresses whose folds over flow with memories. The collect ion celebrates untimely details, quintessential interferences, discrepancies and diachronies, which reclaim t heir discordance with the present in order to better comprehend the present itself.

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There is no room for consolatory nostalgia. Rat her t he need to affirm freedom. The freedom to revive stored-up possibilities. The freedom to construct new meanings at the intersect ion of diverging temporalities. The freedom to choose who you are, beyond what has already been dictated.

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The contemporary city as background: a place of unexpected events, rifts, remnants and amnesias. But above all it is a place for the mingling of reality and desire, testimonies and prophecies, traces of pre-existing worlds and glimmers of worlds in the making: the clues required to create new languages and to envisage new possibilities of existence.

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Tommy Hilfiger celebrates second store opening in Paris

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One of America’s leading lifestyle brands, Tommy Hilfiger, recently celebrated the opening of its second store in Paris with an exclusive event attended by the who’s who of international fashion and glamour industries.

Located at 43 boulevard des Capucines, near the Place de la Madeleine, the outlet features latest Spring/Summer 2015 menswear, womenswear, innerwear, footwear and accessories ranges as well as new offerings from Hilfiger Collection and Tommy Hilfiger Tailored labels.

“Opening our new boulevard des Capucines store represents an exciting moment for our brand, and the new location is the perfect complement to our flagship on the Champs-Élysées. Paris is incredibly inspiring and the city continues to play an important role for our brand in the French market,” said the eponymous designer in a media statement.

The event was part of the brand’s year-long commemoration of 30th anniversary. The high on glam quotient evening was attended by the likes of supermodel Behati Prinsloo, singer-songwriter Rita Ora and French actresses Leila Bekhit and Virginie.

Valentino opts for New York to host its Couture Show

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 The Milanese high-end fashion house Valentino has chosen New York over Paris to host its upcoming couture extravaganza.

The label’s joint creative duo Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are prepping up to organize the show in honour of the opening of its Fifth Avenue flagship store in the American city.

After the NYC catwalk presentation, which will be held sometime in December, 2014, the brand will again join the official forthcoming Paris haute couture week calendar in January, 2015 to showcase its latest offering.

According to industry experts of The New York Times, the reason behind the change in choice of venue is because the brand is aiming to shift its focus on the city which houses majority of its customers.

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 The increasing trend of choosing to host a show outside the Mecca of haute couture, Paris, points towards the ever-shrinking calendar of the celebrated French event. Many international brands, including the Italian house Dolce and Gabbana which showcases its couture collections in Italy, have started showing in different cities.

Founded in 1959 by the eponymous designer Valentino Garavani, Valentino specializes in clothing and lifestyle products.

The Paris Haute Couture Week is slated to take place from January 25th to 30th, 2015. (PB)

Papier Glace hosts fashion photography exhibition

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The exhibition Papier glacé, un siècle de photographie de mode chez Condé Nast  (“Coming into Fashion, a Century of Photography at Condé Nast” ) draws on the archives of Condé Nast New York, Paris, Milan and London, bringing together some 150 mostly original prints from leading fashion photographers from 1918 through to the present day.

The Editors in chief and Artistic Directors of Vogue, Glamour and, more recently, W, have always had a nose for immense talents, playing a decisive role in renewing fashion photography. The very first photographer employed by the group was Baron Adolf de Meyer, to be followed by Edward Steichen, George Hoyningen-Huene, Horst P. Horst, Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld and Irving Penn. Then, from the 1950s onwards, Guy Bourdin, William Klein, David Bailey, Helmut Newton, Bruce Weber, Peter Lindbergh, Steven Meisel, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, Miles Aldridge…

The exhibition is an opportunity to rediscover the work of some ninety photographers at the dawn of their careers. Organised by theme, it highlights the ties between these photographers who, from one glossy page to the next, have shaped the identity and history of Vogue.

The dialogue flows in the most natural of fashions between the elegant interiors of Baron de Meyer and Henry Clarke, the narrative staging of Cecil Beaton and Deborah Turbeville, the snaps of Norman Parkinson and William Klein, the visual experiments of Erwin Blumenfeld and Paolo Roversi, the surrealist games of Man Ray, John Rawlings and Guy Bourdin, the glorified bodies of Horst P. Horst and Herb Ritts and the portraits of models by Irving Penn, Peter Lindbergh and Corinne Day.

The photographs are accompanied by some fifteen haute couture items from the collections of the Palais Galliera. There are also two reading rooms with fifty or so magazines in display cases and a number of screens where you can “leaf through” some outstanding features from the publications of the Condé Nast group. And last but not least, contemporary films projected on a large screen outline the possible future   of fashion photography.

After Berlin, Milan and Edinburgh, the journey continues to Zurich, West Palm Beach, Fort Worth and Tokyo.

Roberto Cavalli designs costumes for Miley Cyrus’s tour

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Internationally-renowned designer Roberto Cavalli has been roped in to design stage costumes for the California-based young singing sensation Miley Cyrus’s forthcoming Bangerz Tour, scheduled to kick off on February 14, 2014, in Vancouver.

According to vogue.co.uk, the 73-year-old Italian fashion design veteran has created a variety of blingy, attention grabbing looks for the 21-year-old star’s on-stage performances.

The costumes include a sheer bodysuit embellished with strategically placed sparklers, a crystal studded denim hot pants and sleeveless vest ensemble, a cropped leopard and python print denim jacket and shorts combo, a black zebra-patterned number and a matching tiny top and knicker set.

Other than Miley, the Florentine designer has designed stage outfits for famous recording artists like Beyoncé, Cheryl Cole and the Spice Girls in the past.

Treasure Trove of Couture Creations on display in Paris

ParisHauteCouture_121758143562Paris, the Mecca of all fashion enthusiasts, has a historical connection with sumptuous haute couture designs, and to further re-establish and celebrate this age-old relationship, an exhibition displaying a lavish treasure trove of couture creations is going to take place from March 3, 2013, onwards in the French capital.

Organized by Swarovski, a brand which has long been associated with Parisian haute couture, the exhibition titled ‘Paris Haute Couture’ will feature over 100 pieces collected from the archives of Parisian fashion history museum Musée Galliera.

Handpicked by the museum’s director Olivier Saillard and curator Ann Zazzo, the vintage gowns and dresses have been designed by big fashion houses like Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin.

Among the lush exhibits of couture ensembles, the exhibition will include a green velvet gown designed by Charles Frederick Worth for Countess Elisabeth Greffulhe in 1885 and one of the final haute couture pieces by designer Cristóbal Balenciaga before he closed down his couture business in 1968.

In addition to dresses, the event will also display drawings and photographs of some rare heritage couture outfits.

Born in the 19th century, haute couture, which translates to ‘high dressmaking’ in English, is an exclusively French industry, which caters mostly to wealthy affluent classes.

Founded in 1895, Swarovski specializes in a range of cut crystal and related luxury products.

News Desk – India

Parsons Design School Establishes Academic Centre in Paris

Parsons_Paris_510x286_119713141162New York-based ‘Parsons The New School For Design’, the alma mater of the contemporary extraordinary fashion designers like Balenciaga’s new creative director Alexander Wang and American fashion talent Marc Jacobs, is opening a new fashion design school in Paris – the European hub of art, craft and heritage.

Scheduled to be opened in September 2013, Parsons Paris will offer U.S. undergraduate and graduate degrees in fashion design, design management and history of the decorative arts to more than 150 students.

Though primarily based on the courses developed for the New York campus, the new school’s curriculum will be slightly modified to suit the Parisian culture.

English will be the basic medium in which the program courses will be taught, however students can also avail the opportunities to take French language classes in Parsons Paris.

Based on the same ethics of the New York school, one-third of the proceeds collected from the tuition fees at Paris campus will go into the institution’s scholarship programs.

Colloquially known as Parsons or Parsons School of Design, the New York campus was established in 1896 as a private non-profit entity. Currently, the school offers more than 25 undergraduate and graduate programs

News Desk – India